SURFING WITH OUR HOME.
‘Kerala’. our 24th state, translates to ‘Land Of Coconuts’ – that should give you an idea of how beautiful it is here!
5am was our wake up call, uninvited. The church across the field plays music so loud that it feels like someone is standing in our room with a P.A. system blaring in our ears.
5.30am was our actual wake up call, not long after we were trailing the bus from Our Home through the 4 hour drive to the beach.
White sand, palm fringed, sunny beach greeted us with perfect small beginner waves trundling to shore. STOKED!!
We ceremoniously handed over the brand new NSP surfboards that Global Surf Industries has donated to Our Home and the Surf Ashram. The kids unwrapped them like they were the best Christmas presents they had ever received…maybe they were.
They waxed up their brand new shred sleds and we gave them a quick lesson on the beach translated by Chacko, then Stef, Kishore, Kya (Legend Aussie volunteer) and I pushed some kids into their first waves and they became probably the first people to surf this beach.
The crowds flocked, the local newspaper dropped by, the boards got shared around, and the best moment of the day was watching Chacko stand up proud all the way to the shore. Then his comment topped that vision, “I had fear of the sea, but not anymore, thanks to you.”
We let Rakish, who was the first kid to stand up (and therefore the surf break gets names Rakish’s Wave) choose which boards he wanted to keep for Our Home – and the rest of the boards go back with the India Surf Club. Our Home is 4 hours from the beach, but they were hooked. Chacko said he is going to bring the older boys to the beach as often as possible to surf’.
Amazing day would be an understatment!
Gandalf (The beard is getting pretty long)